HERE IS A REVIEW; Long story short, this is the second version of the license plate frame (LPF). The first LPF was terrible. The electronics were not sealed, the plastic lens yellowed very quickly, and the metal chipped away easily. The new design is a much better design in theory. The only problem I can see is that the wiring is too small to handle the 6 amps(!!) it requires to be powered. Either this is a mistake on vleds part and it draws fewer amps, or someone thought 'bigger is better' but failed to consider incandescent bulbs + 6 amps = melted wiring harness or blown fuses.

I want to pre order the new LPF, but remembering what happened with the tritons, I think I will wait for revision 2. If you don't know what happened with the tritons, they used stupid audio wiring connectors that failed miserably when bent. They were not sealed properly (heat shrink and die electric grease does not count). And the flasher boxes were junk (it was an incandescent bulb inside a metal housing!).

Wow, so 6 cree XML or comparable LEDs? Maybe the new XPL even. Should be quite bright, huh? Well obviously there isn't anywhere near enough surface area to dissipate 60 watts of heat, they are counting on the mass to be enough to absorb it for short duty cycles. The same would hold true somewhat for the wiring leading to it, adding another 70+ watts to the factory wiring harness is certainly overloading it, but for short enough duty cycles it may not be a problem. Or, it may melt the wiring harness and perhaps burn the car to the ground, one or the other.

New vleds license plate frame backup lights. This is the second version of the license plate frame. Led reverse light-revision 2. New vleds license plate frame backup lights. This is the second version of the license plate frame. Led reverse light-revision 2.

Until someone has a chance to measure actual current draw hard to say, but I think I would suggest connecting via a relay and fuse holder directly to battery instead of trusting OEM wiring. If I thought this frame would be reliable and actually capable of keeping the LEDs at spec I would consider buying one for the front of the car and wiring to a switch for off road driving lights! Wow, so 6 cree XML or comparable LEDs? Maybe the new XPL even. Should be quite bright, huh?(edited, it actually says they're using XML on the product page, rewrote first paragraph below after seeing that info) I would be extremely surprised if these even output over 2000 lumens. Don't mean to beat the horse after VegasF6's post, but like he said, there doesn't seem to be NEARLY enough heatsinking. Now, I know that these are for backup/reverse application, and I've designed backup LEDs before that should only be used intermittently, and they reduce current to the LEDs substantially after about a minute to keep heat under control.

Has anyone used/installed this product? Installing Zippers In Bags there. HIGH POWER 18W LED BACK-UP LIGHT LICENSE PLATE FRAME LPF CHROME The details are sparse and I'm wondering: a). Shop for License Plate Frame w/LED Back-Up Lights from Zip Corvette - your source for Corvette license plate frames with back-up lights to complete your installation.

Just a way of squeezing out more output for the first 30-60 seconds, which is usually the maximum time your backup lights will be on. However, it's not a good design, and only because there's precious little room in a 921 bulb housing. This thing, though, has much more room to work with. Addon For Kodi. At the minimum, I'd expect the entire piece to be aheatsink, but it seems there is a plastic molded 'logo cover' that goes over it. Welp, I guess I'll buy one and test it out when they're released.

Not too excited about it though. If they're doing 2 series strings of 3 led's each, running each string at a separately-regulated 3A, that should be very close to around 5-6A total draw, right? Still a poor design, but the only way those numbers make sense to me.Sorry, I removed most of my previous post because it was a little off-base with my assumption of using XML2, rewrote it below. That configuration would be 6A at 9 volts (for 3 LEDs @ 3V ea), but it says it's 6A draw at 14.4 volts. (Don't ask me why they are using 14.4 V as the rated operating voltage. No one uses that voltage for anything in my experience.) Also, XML LEDs would fry in about two seconds at 3A. Set current draw aside for a moment, as it gets confusing.